When the metal surface of a ring appears to be covered with tiny gems, the technique is called pavé, which means paved. The surface does look like a street paved with glittering cobblestones. Small gems are placed in even smaller holes that have been drilled out of the ring. The gems are placed in rows so that they fill as much of the space of the surface as is possible without actually touching. The more precisely cut the gems, the better the final appearance of the ring. After it is positioned in its hole, bits of metal from the surface are pushed over the edge of the gem, forming tiny beads to hold the stone in place.

To evaluate a ring that is pavé set, look at the overall design. Are the diamonds spaced evenly like a glittering carpet of gems? That's the sign of a well-designed and well-made ring. The beads holding each stone should be smooth and consistently sized. Take a look at the workmanship under magnification to make sure that each gem is pinned securely in place. If a section of the ring is pavé set, with certain areas tapering to a point, the gems should diminish in size as the pavé area narrows.

The flush or gypsy setting is one of the most subtle gem-setting techniques. Stones are sunk into the mounting until they are nearly level or flush with the surface. Only the table of the stone and a bit of the upper pavilion facets show. It is a minimalist approach that appeals to the woman who likes her jewelry as streamlined as possible. Flush setting is also used for larger stones and offers great protection as well as a modern flair.

If the flush setting is subtle, the bezel setting is its bolder sister. A bezel is a collar of gold that wraps around the gem. The bezel is attached to the top of the ring and stands up above it adding height and another dimension to the setting. Although solid bezels have a very traditional look, the bezel may be 'split' into two sections, arcing around just part of the gem. This simple change suddenly opens up the setting and gives it a totally modern look. This technique may also be used on a fancy cut gem, with an arc of gold around the wide curve of a pear shape and another, V-shaped section of gold embracing the narrow end.

Bezel set gems should be held squarely in place, with the table of the gem perpendicular to the bezel. Make sure that the collar of the bezel fits snugly around the stone with no gaps.

Each setting technique contributes to the overall design of the ring. Channel setting is sleek and elegant, pavé setting is more baroque and adorned, and prong setting puts the emphasis on the stones rather than the metal. You may like one ring rather than another because of the setting technique used. Once you recognize these differences, you'll be prepared to analyze each ring at a glance and make a choice based on those elements that best please your taste.

If you still can’t decide on a ring style, take a minute to think about the shape of your hand and your fingers. Is your hand long or wide? Are your fingers rounded or thin? Do your fingers taper or are they even in width? These elements will affect the way a ring looks on your hand. Following a few simple rules can help you select a design that complements you.

Choose a design that is in proportion to your hand. A woman with a big hand can carry off a big, multi-level ring far better than a woman with a small hand.

The basic rule couldn't be simpler: width adds width, length adds length. So, if you want to diminish the apparent width of your hand, look at rings with an elongated design. Look for marquise or oval cut gems set parallel to the finger, pulling the eye along its length. An emerald or rectangular cut is also be a good choice, provided the stone has slender proportions. Consider the height of the style as well as its width and length. A layered setting can be lengthening in effect if it is asymmetrical.

For a narrow hand, look for an oval or marquise stone set across the width of the finger. You will also find a round gemstone to be a good choice, especially if it is in a setting with an interesting shank that draws the eye across the finger. Slender fingers also beautifully show off a setting with height that elevates the gem above the finger.